Copenhagen’s culinary landscape, traditionally celebrated for its New Nordic cuisine, is undergoing a dynamic transformation. Chefs who have honed their skills in the kitchens of Michelin-starred establishments are now diving into their own cultural heritages, creating a vibrant fusion that broadens the scope of dining in the Danish capital. This article explores how a wave of diversity is reshaping Copenhagen’s food scene, pushing culinary boundaries while honoring traditions from around the world.
Nestled in the heart of Copenhagen is Goldfinch, an elegant Cantonese restaurant that offers a refreshing departure from the city’s typical menus. Here, exquisite dishes such as scallop and sesame toasts, garlic shrimp, and pork wontons drenched in black vinegar and chili oil tantalize the taste buds. The lavish setting, marked by a striking contrast of jet-black ceilings and cherry red barstools, transports diners to a charming Asian eatery — that is, until the Danish chatter snaps them back to reality. Goldfinch’s owners, chef Will King-Smith and Megan Leung, aim to fill a noticeable gap in Copenhagen’s culinary offerings. King-Smith, who previously helmed Geranium, recognized a yearning for more varied global cuisine after immersing himself in the rigor of New Nordic practices.
The strategic introduction of heritage dishes, inspired by Leung’s family recipes, has become a signature of Goldfinch’s culinary philosophy. This melding of cultures, combined with high-quality Scandinavian ingredients, sets the stage for a dining experience that respects heritage while pushing the envelope in contemporary cuisine.
As chefs like King-Smith begin to shift focus, the restaurant scene in Copenhagen is evolving into a mosaic of cultural identities. This shift is occurring in tandem with the impending closure of Noma’s traditional service, a restaurant that has been hugely influential in defining New Nordic cuisine. There is a palpable excitement in the air, as culinary creatives grapple with the idea of crafting a new identity for a city renowned for its hyperlocal approach.
One notable figure in this revolution is Youra Kim, a chef whose journey took a defining turn during her time at Noma. There, her introduction of Korean flavors into staff meals received unexpected praise from Noma’s founder, René Redzepi. This affirmation catalyzed her desire to explore her own culinary roots, laying the foundation for her restaurant, Propaganda Kitchen and Wine. At Propaganda, guests experience a seamless blend of Korean and Nordic flavors, where dishes such as gochujang-glazed ribs sit alongside beef tartare accented with bitter leaves. Kim’s approach highlights the increasing interconnectedness of culinary cultures in Copenhagen.
At Gaijin, chef Edward Lee draws from his time at the prestigious restaurant Jordnær to explore him blending Japanese techniques with Nordic ingredients. His tasting menu, which boasts elegantly plated sashimi alongside seasonal yakitori, exemplifies this blending of traditions and techniques. Lee’s background enriches his cuisine, showcasing how chefs are embracing their heritages while paying homage to the high standards established by Copenhagen’s fine dining culture.
Similarly, Jonathan Tam’s restaurant, Jatak, illuminates this trend through its tribute to both Cantonese and Vietnamese flavors. Tam’s culinary adventure began in the hallowed kitchens of Noma and Relæ, where he learned to balance innovative cooking with seasonal accessibility. The result is a vibrant menu that incorporates local ingredients to create dishes reminiscent of his childhood, such as those teasing the boundary between tradition and innovation.
One of the most compelling examples of this culinary evolution is seen in Kristian Baumann’s Koan. Drawing from his Korean roots and extensive training in Denmark, Baumann’s menu highlights a radient fusion of Korean and Danish elements. His reimagining of the conventional bread course into a kkwabaegi, which is delicately crafted with Danish techniques and Korean inspirations, speaks volumes about the emerging culinary narrative in Copenhagen. It demonstrates a collective desire among chefs to create a dining experience that resonates on multiple cultural levels.
This wave of chefs is not merely re-envisioning their menus; they are also engaging in a cultural dialogue that reflects Denmark’s greater openness to culinary diversity. As Baumann asserts, Danes are increasingly eager to explore unfamiliar cuisine, pushing the culinary landscape toward a more enriching and varied future.
Copenhagen’s evolving food scene, driven by the incorporation of diverse culinary influences, is an exciting commentary on globalization’s role in local societies. By challenging traditional norms, daring chefs are carving out their own identities while solidifying Copenhagen’s reputation as a global culinary destination. With each new dish that emerges, the narrative of Copenhagen cuisine becomes richer, inviting both locals and tourists to experience an exquisite tapestry of flavors, traditions, and innovative techniques.
Across the city, restaurants like Goldfinch, Propaganda Kitchen, Gaijin, and Jatak are not just places to eat; they are catalysts for cultural exchange and culinary exploration. As this transformation unfolds, Copenhagen stands poised to redefine what it means to be a gastronomic capital in the modern age. The era of homogeneity in dining is over, replaced by a landscape that fully embraces diversity, creativity, and a spirited quest for identity through food.